This wine will make friends easily with a gleam of bright garnet behind its flashy smile. The nose is all get up and go with potent brambly fruit reminiscent of an autumn bush-bash to a remote trout pool on the upper Tongariro. Aged quince jelly, soft liquorice allsorts and a malty sweetness dance with squishy blackberry aromas then give way intriguingly to sticky dried prune, broken wood and finely ground nutmeg. Moreish notes of salted brittle caramel chocolate combine with slightly more dangerous hints of the bilge water found in an old land-locked clinker-built kauri sailing dingy.
The palate is as thick and full as a stockpot of boysenberry jam in a rolling boil on a cottage stovetop yet this slippery smoothness is draped over an auspiciously sinewy frame; kind of like Matthew McConaughey in a tuxedo. The acidity is barely perceptible along the cheeks yet cinches the wine together like the never-fail blood knot on a 5lb nylon tippet. Tannins with a consistency of finely ground pumice give the wine a deceptively persuasive edge while crisp oven roasted kumara and freshly ground coffee beans lend a polyhedral quality. Some deep earthy note, derived perhaps from 6 feet under, bring a drying lift to the finish which lingers long after swallowing. More streetwise than precocious, there is certainly no hurry for this wine and it will provide a cognitive drop over the next 10 years.